JEN KAO
fall winter 2011 show
By Brittany Adams
Jen Kao is into superwomen—not of the caped variety; think more along the lines of strong historical figures like Catherine the Great and the Egyptian Queen Hatshepsut. For Fall, the designer took us in a completely different direction from her beachy, boho Spring lineup. This was Ziggy Stardust meets Manish Arora meets Christopher Kane's galaxy collection, and the effect was powerful. An acid rainbow color palette was combined with "fishing lure" fringe, strong shoulders, sunburst pleats, and sparkly Lurex. Kao used aerial planetary prints on looks including a flowing silk chiffon wrap kimono. The stunning, cropped fur coat worn by Ajak Deng with multicolored fox and mink turned around to reveal commalike motifs, which, Kao explained backstage, represent moth wings. While many of the pieces here were more conceptual than wearable, there was a great ultraviolet shearling bomber and nubby, striped button-ups that would be seriously cool additions to an everyday wardrobe. Sarah Rutson is rumored to be on board; the Lane Crawford fashion director stopped backstage to pay compliments to the young designer, who is clearly one to keep an eye on.
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