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Tuesday, 30 June 2009


Spring Summer 2010

The question of the origins of man is old as man himself ... for his Spring/Summer 2010, Tillman Lauterbach brings us on a voyage in time to show us his vision in the progression of man from beast to urban city dweller using a new hybrid vessel: HUMAN i mal, half man/half animal.
The show begins in skin tones like naked bodies emerging directly from the river of life ...models are wearing Wellingtons. In this group Lauterbach shows signature pieces and his skill of superposing materials and textures. The men’s flesh toned cashmere tailored blazers display a reinvented draped Mao collar and two thin buttons are double stacked creating one. A boxier cut bloused workers smock is crafted from Egyptian cotton whose reversible construction is highlighted by the use of broad-over-narrow contrasting striped panels. Pants are Saville Row uprooted and reworked as if taken from the rice cultivation fields of Bali, the slim fitting classical tailoring is loosened , rolled up and dressed down.
The collection evolves from skin tones to modern day greys camouflaging us in our present surroundings of concrete, smog, metal… Printed light weight jeans are worn with strict cut jackets in casual jersey , on the foot espadrilles . The city blazer symbolizes today’s matière grise as each of its panels is a different off-shade of grey. The ultra light Cloqué jacquard weaved shirts give the illusion of a reptilian skin.
The final theme jumps into the future, bringing out all black, slightly heavier and more protective mid-season pieces. Slim jeans are shredded to a beastly mane. A furesque cozy sweater is perfect for cool nights in Doctor Zhivago’s garden. The triple knit cotton jersey hoodie will protect you when summer feels more like winter due to the shifts of global warming.
Roughly cut crocodile leather scraps recuperated from the floors of manufacturers of luxury goods compose a powerful element on belt buckles, bags and key rings. Fluid cashmeres and jerseys become more edgy with their crocodile accents that are amusingly tagged with identification clips and bands. Hand-scribbled abstract print scarves are a reoccurring accessory reflecting the light hearted undertone present throughout the collection.

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