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Wednesday, 3 February 2010

LAITINEN Fall Winter 2010-11 Presentation

Fall Winter 2010-11
Paris Menswear Fashion Week

Laitinen Autumn-Winter 2010 collection plays with a contrast of rich and austere, polished and rundown. The initial inspiration for Tuomas and Anna Laitinen were photographs of Finnish juvenile prisoners in the 19th century; drifters, petty conmen, cross-dressers, gypsies, hustlers, runaway soldiers and bankrupt aristocrats. Since there were no prison uniforms, the convicts served their time wearing what they had on when entering their drab surroundings. Clothes were worn until they fell apart, mended till the last possible moment or replaced with a hand down from a freed or hung cellmate. This led to an eclectic yet Spartan mix of fabrics and codes of dressing. A simple peasant shirt could be combined with a worn-out military jacket or even a woman’s skirt, if nothing else was available. Later these elements were merged with latter-day outcasts including gangs, bikers and the tough kids smoking their 1st cigarettes in the back of the school yard.

In the final collection the traces of the past are interpreted with a clean modern take. Double-breasted coats and classic biker jackets have a surprise back of furry Tibetan lamb and formal tailoring is transformed into wrap jackets and waistcoats in washed wools. Oversized military coats in boiled wool and Harris tweed are punctuated with printed patches of decaying roses and rusty pins and nails. The prints are designed in collaboration with photographer Chris Vidal as in all the previous Laitinen collections. Button-down shirts with pin tucks or subtle ruffles change their material quietly from washed cotton and wool mix to sheer silk muslin. The collection includes many handcrafted details and the knitwear is produced entirely by hand using special yarns mixing stainless steel, silk and mohair.

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